© 2000

 What  kind of diamonds do Americans really want? The question prompts an extra faceted sigh. The recent emphasis on table and depth percentages and Ideal Cut promotes round brilliants.
            Proportion grading of fancy shaped diamonds with radiused sides instead of round is extremely difficult. Their finished shape is determined by the unique and original form of the rough diamond. They are shaped and contoured by a master cutter who balances three major considerations-  yield, optimization of brilliance, and gracefulness of shape, a subjective sensibility .
            It’s tempting for us to print a chart of preferred length to width ratios. They are important, but available in other sources. Potential clients often request only millimeter measurements, as if they are replacements for the real diamond. But maybe we’re missing something here. We’ve always thought it crazy to divert the consumer’s attention away from the product. Length to width ratios do not mention brilliance, a critical factor to a diamond’s appearance.
            It’s no accident that emerald cuts, princess, and radiants are currently very popular. Perhaps these cuts are appealing to a more modern taste, and easier to understand because they are straight sided, not individually and creatively contoured.
            Fancy shapes usually display a bow tie effect because the pavilion main facet angles are often steeper in the bellies, and shallower from point to culet. Graceful and longer shapes-i.e. 2:1 marquises- usually have bow ties because their pavilion main facets extending from the points to the culet are shallower and less refractive than those in the bellies cut close to 41 degrees, the critical angle.

                         
                                                                                                                               
            But understanding fancy shape diamonds is an informed art disguised as a technical science because most people will never cut them. A knowledge of diamonds takes experience. Sometimes, it’s not what you know, but what you plainly see. For instance, the illusion of spread exists length and width wise, and if a diamond looks ugly, you don’t want it. While most gemology classes teach us how to grade fancy shape diamonds, it is a rare one indeed that teaches us how to live with them.
            There’s a world of information out there. But as it turns out, people don’t just want information at their finger tips. They want a beautiful diamond on their fingers. No single force influences a consumer more than the recommendations of a retailer.  And if you’ve been seeking a way to express your individuality, look no further than fancy shapes. They have a distinctive style. But if you don’t have backbone, you won’t sell them.
            When you encourage choices of shape and cut, you offer something to everyone. You can teach, broaden your clients perspective and shape the kind of sales you want. Fancy shapes are symbolic of who your customers are- they come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. Variety is not just the spice of life. Its the spice of business.